Why the seven rules matter

The seven rules of firearms safety sit at the heart of the NZ Arms Code. Every question on safe handling in the licence test traces back to these. They are not suggestions - they are the standard every licence holder is expected to apply every single time a firearm is picked up.

The seven rules

• 1. Treat every firearm as loaded. Check it yourself, physically, every time you pick one up - never trust someone else's word that it is empty.
• 2. Always point firearms in a safe direction. A safe direction is one where, even if the firearm fired unexpectedly, nobody could be hurt and nothing valuable could be damaged.
• 3. Load a firearm only when ready to fire. Do not load until you are in the field, at the range, or in a safe shooting position - never load 'just in case' beforehand.
• 4. Identify your target beyond all doubt. You must be completely certain of what you are shooting at, and what is behind and around it, before you touch the trigger.
• 5. Check your firing zone. Know what is in front of, beyond, and to the sides of your target - a bullet can travel a very long way and through obstacles.
• 6. Store firearms and ammunition safely. Firearms and ammunition must be stored securely, and ideally separately, so they are inaccessible to unauthorised people, including children.
• 7. Avoid alcohol and drugs when handling firearms. Never handle a firearm while under the influence, and never handle one if you are unwell, overtired, or emotionally distressed.

Common mistakes candidates make

• Mixing up rule order - the test does not usually require reciting them in sequence, but it does test that you can identify which rule applies to a given scenario, so know what each one covers.
• Confusing 'checking the firing zone' (rule 5, about the wider area and backstop) with 'identifying the target' (rule 4, about the specific target itself) - they are related but distinct.
• Thinking storage only means a locked cabinet for the firearm - ammunition must also be secured, and best practice is to store it separately from the firearm.
• Assuming 'safe direction' is fixed - it changes constantly as you move, so you must keep reassessing it.
• Believing the alcohol/drugs rule only applies while actually firing - it applies to any handling, including cleaning, loading, or carrying.

Exam tip

Expect scenario-based questions describing a hunting or range situation and asking which rule was broken, or what the shooter should do next. Practise applying each rule to real-world pictures in your head, not just memorising the list.

What the Arms Act 1983 actually does

The Arms Act 1983 (and its amendments, most recently updated after 2019/2020) is the law that controls who can own, use and carry firearms in New Zealand. It does not give you a 'right' to own a firearm - a firearms licence is a privilege granted by Police, and it can be refused, suspended or revoked if you're not considered 'fit and proper'.

Getting a licence

• Minimum age is 16 for a standard firearms licence (a parent/guardian must consent if you're 16-17).
• You must pass a Police vetting check, including interviews with your referees and, usually, your partner or close family.
• You must complete an approved firearms safety course and pass the test - that's what this test prep is for.
• A standard Category A licence lasts 10 years before renewal.

Endorsements for restricted items

A standard licence only covers Category A (sporting/hunting rifles and shotguns). To possess anything else you need a specific endorsement on top of your licence:

• E endorsement - military style semi-automatics (MSSAs).
• Pistol endorsement - handguns, only for approved purposes like an approved pistol club.
• Restricted weapons - things like machine guns need a separate permit, not just an endorsement.

Licence conditions - the ones that trip people up

• You must store firearms and ammunition separately and securely at all times (locked, immobilised or in a safe) - this is checked at your address as part of vetting and can be checked again later.
• You must report a lost or stolen firearm to Police as soon as practicable.
• Your licence is tied to you personally, not transferable, and must be produced if a Police officer lawfully asks for it.
• Selling or lending a firearm to someone without a valid licence is an offence, even to a friend 'just for a weekend'.
• Ammunition can only be sold to someone who holds the correct licence/endorsement for that type of firearm.

Common mistakes candidates make

• Confusing 'endorsement' (extra permission added to your existing licence) with 'permit' (a separate document for things like MSSA possession in some cases, or a dealer's licence).
• Assuming a Category A licence lets you own a pistol - it doesn't.
• Thinking storage rules only apply to the firearm - ammunition storage is a separate legal requirement.
• Forgetting that 'fit and proper person' is an ongoing test, not a one-off tick at application - Police can revoke a licence at any time if circumstances change (e.g. a protection order, mental health concern, or family violence report).

Why safe storage matters

Safe storage is one of the most heavily tested areas of the Arms Code. The core idea is simple: firearms, and the ammunition that fits them, must be kept so that unauthorised people - especially children, unlicensed household members, and thieves - cannot get hold of them. As a licence holder you are legally responsible for how your firearms are stored, even when you are not using them.

The legal minimum standard

• Firearms must be stored unloaded.
• They must be stored in a securely locked receptacle, cabinet, container or safe made of hardened steel or an equivalent material, that a person cannot easily break into.
• The storage must be fixed to the structure of the building (bolted to a wall or floor) so it cannot simply be carried away.
• Ammunition must be stored separately from firearms, in a locked container, or the two must at least be secured so an unauthorised person cannot access both together.

Category-specific extras

• Pistols, restricted weapons and military-style semi-automatics (MSSAs) held under an endorsement have a stricter standard - they need a more secure steel safe, often with additional locking points, reflecting their higher risk category.
• Any part designed for firing that could make a firearm work again (such as a bolt) should also be secured or removed and stored separately where practical.

Vehicles and temporary situations

• A firearm left in a vehicle must never be left unattended in a way that it is visible or easily accessible - lock it out of sight, ideally in a locked boot, and remove the bolt if practical.
• Short, genuine breaks (e.g. stopping for fuel) still require the firearm to be secured out of view.

Common mistakes candidates make

• Thinking a locked room is enough - it is not; a dedicated locked steel container is required.
• Believing ammunition can sit next to the firearm as long as the room is locked - it must be kept separately secure.
• Forgetting that storage standards apply at all times, not just overnight - leaving a firearm on a table while answering the door is a breach.
• Assuming a soft case or trigger lock alone satisfies the law - it does not meet the hardened, fixed-container requirement.
• Not bolting the cabinet down - an unsecured safe that can be lifted out fails the standard.

Inspections

Police may inspect your storage facilities before issuing or renewing a licence, and can follow up at any time to confirm your storage still meets the required standard. Poor storage is grounds for licence revocation.

Ammunition basics

Cartridges are made of four parts: the case, primer, propellant (powder) and projectile (bullet or shot). Calibre describes the bore diameter and must match the firearm exactly - never assume 'close enough' is safe. Mixing calibres, or using reloads/handloads you don't fully understand, is a leading cause of catastrophic failures.

Matching ammunition to the firearm

• Always check the calibre stamped on the barrel against the calibre stamped on the ammunition box.
• Rimfire and centrefire are different ignition systems and are never interchangeable.
• Shotgun ammunition is described by gauge (12, 20, .410 etc) - a 20 gauge shell can lodge in a 12 gauge barrel and cause a dangerous secondary obstruction if a 12 gauge round is then fired.
• Using the wrong ammunition, or ammunition that is damaged, corroded or wet, risks a burst barrel, jam or injury.

Storage and transport rules

• Ammunition must be stored securely, and it is strongly recommended (and often required by insurers and good practice) to store it separately from the firearm itself.
• A locked, dry container out of reach of children and unauthorised people is the standard.
• When transporting firearms and ammunition, keep them separate and out of public view, and never leave a loaded firearm unattended in a vehicle.

Understanding your ammunition

• Read and understand headstamp markings (calibre, manufacturer) before loading.
• Check for corrosion, dents or bulges - never fire a cartridge that looks damaged.
• Overpressure or squib loads (where the bullet doesn't fully leave the barrel) are serious hazards - if a shot sounds or feels wrong, stop immediately, unload safely and check the barrel for an obstruction before firing again.

Common exam traps

• Don't confuse 'gauge' (shotguns) with 'calibre' (rifles/pistols) - gauge numbers get smaller as bore size gets bigger, calibre numbers usually reflect actual diameter.
• Remember a squib load leaves a hidden barrel obstruction - firing a second round through it can cause a burst barrel and serious injury.
• Ammunition condition matters as much as correct calibre - visually check every round, don't just trust the box label.
• 'Compatible' ammunition means exact match, not 'similar' - there is no safe substitute.

The golden rule

If you are ever unsure whether ammunition is correct or safe for a firearm, do not load or fire it. Check the markings, inspect the round, and when in doubt, seek advice before use.

Why this topic matters

Hunting is the main reason many applicants want a firearms licence, and the Arms Code treats hunting safety as a core competency, not an add-on. The examiner wants proof you can identify a target beyond doubt and control a shot in an uncontrolled outdoor environment.

Positive identification

• You must be 100% certain of your target before you touch the trigger — sound, movement, or a flash of colour is never enough.
• 'I thought it was...' has killed hunters in New Zealand. Several fatal shootings involved a hunter firing at movement or colour, believing it was a deer.
• Confirm the whole animal, not just antlers, colour, or an outline in scrub.
• If there is any doubt at all, you do not fire. No shot is worth a life.

Know your target and beyond

• You are responsible for every pellet or bullet that leaves your firearm, including where it ends up after passing through or missing the target.
• Check your backdrop: bullets can travel well over a kilometre, ricochet off rock or water, and pass through animals.
• Never fire along a ridgeline, over a rise, or towards a sound where you cannot see a safe backstop.

Clothing and visibility

• Wear blaze orange or brightly coloured clothing so other hunters can identify you as human, especially in areas used by multiple hunting parties.
• Natural colours like brown, green, and white increase the risk of being mistaken for game, particularly deer or goats.
• Make noise or call out when moving through bush where other hunters may be present.

Firearm handling in the field

• Treat every firearm as loaded at all times, even between shots.
• Keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction while climbing, crossing obstacles, or getting in and out of vehicles.
• Unload before crossing fences, rivers, or difficult terrain, and before entering a hut or vehicle.
• Only load when you are in a position to shoot and identification is certain.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Shooting at sound or movement alone.
• Assuming you are the only hunter in the area.
• Wearing camouflage or natural tones without any blaze colour.
• Failing to check what is beyond and around the target before firing.
• Carrying a loaded firearm while not actively hunting or when identification is not yet confirmed.

Exam tip

Questions often present a scenario (rustling bushes, a flash of colour, a shout in the distance) and ask what you should do. The correct answer is almost always to hold fire until the target is positively identified as legal game and the area beyond is safe.

Transporting firearms safely

When you move a firearm anywhere - car, boat, plane, on foot - the golden rule is the same: it must be rendered incapable of being fired, and it must not be accessible to the public.

The two-part rule: unloaded and locked away

• The firearm must be unloaded before transport, every single time, no exceptions.
• It should be carried in a secure locked container, gun case, or the vehicle boot - somewhere not in immediate reach of the driver or passengers.
• Ammunition should ideally be carried separately from the firearm, in its own container.
• A trigger lock, cable lock, or bolt removed adds another layer of security and is good practice even for a short trip.

In vehicles

• Never leave a firearm visible through a car window - out of sight, not just out of reach.
• Never leave a firearm unattended in a vehicle for any length of time; if you must stop, take it with you or make sure it is properly secured and hidden.
• A firearm left in an unattended vehicle is a common way guns get stolen, and you are responsible for that loss.

In public places

• You must have a genuine, lawful reason to carry a firearm in a public place (for example, travelling to or from hunting, a range, or a pest-control job).
• Carrying a firearm in public without good reason, or in a way that causes alarm, is an offence even if it is unloaded.
• Firearms must be cased or covered when moving through public areas such as car parks, service stations, or town centres - do not walk around with one slung over your shoulder in the open.
• Alcohol and firearms transport never mix - you cannot carry or handle a firearm while over the legal limit or affected by drugs.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Assuming an unloaded firearm can be left on show on a car seat - it cannot.
• Forgetting that 'transport' rules apply even for very short trips, like popping into a shop on the way home from hunting.
• Leaving ammunition loaded in a magazine that stays attached to the firearm during transport.
• Thinking a locked car alone counts as secure storage - the firearm itself still needs to be locked away or cased.
• Not having a clear, genuine reason ready to explain why you are carrying in public - police can and do ask.

Why it matters

These rules exist to stop firearms being stolen, to stop accidental discharge, and to reassure the public. Breaching them can mean losing your licence even if no one was hurt - the Arms Act treats careless transport and public carrying as serious matters.